Trip report: São Paulo - A misunderstood city?!
Context: São Paulo was the last destination in a three-month trip around South America before flying back to the UK for Christmas at the tail end of 2024. I'm a 34-year-old male Product Designer from the UK and have been working remotely and on the move for the last four years.
(Cities visited on this expedition: Bogotá, Medellín, Lima, Santiago, Buenos Aires, Rio)
Verdict: I only spent a week there - but it's somewhere I'd strongly consider heading back to for a longer stint at some point over the next 12 months. If you love big cities (I do), there's more than enough for a great 1-month working stay.
--
It felt like everything I had heard and read about São Paulo before arriving was outright negative, with the criticisms centred around a few key points:
- That it's dangerous
- That it's boring
- That its culture revolves solely around work
- That it's visually uninspiring
São Paulo was radically different from what I had envisaged. I had an impression that walking around the city would be gravely irresponsible - that danger lurked around every corner and you'd be confined to Ubers in order to get anywhere safely.
I don't know where that impression originated from, but it was (thankfully) completely wrong.
When compared to other cities on the continent, it had a much greater walkable area than somewhere like Bogotá. Looking further afield, compared to places with a culture of (well-warranted) security paranoia such as Cape Town or Johannesburg, it felt like an enormous improvement.
I should stress that my experience isn't representative of the whole city. However, in the more modern and affluent areas, which you're likely to frequent as a visiting remote worker, I didn't feel any unease in the slightest. This was reflected by high footfall on the streets during the day and early evening, with people of all ages walking, running and cycling alone at weekends.
Important context: critiques of the city are often levelled with its boisterous, beautiful, riveting neighbouring city of Rio in mind. If you read my previous post on Rio, you'll know I was a big fan of the city, albeit perhaps not as a long-term destination for remote work.
When making a direct comparison to one of the world's most exuberant cities, São Paulo is going to fall flat every time for conventional tourism. And there's certainly an element of truth to these claims.
Yes, it is dramatically less visually inspiring. There are no white sand beaches set against tropical mountains. You won't see people practicing volleyball at 6:30 AM next to others still out from the night before. As South America's largest city and a global hub of commerce and finance, it naturally has a work focus.
But if you're here to work, then for me, these are net positives and contributed to me actually enjoying my time more, feeling more in the natural cadence and rhythm of the city.
✅ Positives
A real big-city feel. The 24/7 bars and restaurants, imposing skyscrapers, wide roads and multicultural population all give it the feel of a serious global city, with Buenos Aires being the nearest comparable urban experience I found on the continent. Rio has touches of it in the Centro district, but it's segregated from the more leisure-oriented areas, whereas in São Paulo you find more of a typical city-like ambience with commercial and residential areas blending more naturally. In terms of demographics, it feels truly cosmopolitan with several sizeable foreign populations - most notably the largest Japanese diaspora outside of Japan.
Great value. While it's difficult to speak universally about value, if you're earning in USD/EUR/GBP, you'll struggle to find a global metropolis that matches São Paulo's value outside of Southeast Asia. Both accommodation and dining out offer dramatically better value than Europe and North America, without any noticeable drop in quality. However, like anywhere, bills can quickly mount up at higher-end establishments.
A solid base to explore from. With two airports serving both Brazil's and South America's largest city, you've got an excellent selection of connections to other cities in southern Brazil and internationally if you're planning to make it a base for an extended South American trip. For European travellers, flights to Guarulhos are among the cheapest to the continent via LATAM, TAP Air or BA.
Accessible green spaces both within and outside the city's perimeter. For a city often criticised for its density of buildings and concrete, it's greener than portrayed. Within an hour from the centre, you can reach the expansive Parque Estadual da Cantareira, complementing numerous inner-city options. I enjoyed running along the Pinheiros River Cycle Path & Parque Villa-Lobos, as well as walking in the evening through Parque Ibirapuera.
An enviable selection of coworking spaces. Undoubtedly the best city on the continent for WeWork members, with an unrivalled selection and quality of options spread across São Paulo. The number of quality independent operators far exceeds Rio and most other neighbouring cities I visited.
❌ Negatives
Not as 'Brazilian' as you may expect or hope for. If you're only making one stop in Brazil, you might be underwhelmed by São Paulo in isolation, as it bears little resemblance to Rio's specific Carioca culture - what the world typically recognises as Brazilian. While I loved it as a place to work, if you're looking for a pure leisure destination, a couple of days may suffice before heading somewhere more compelling.
An inconvenient metro system. Compared to Rio where you can tap in with a contactless card, São Paulo's metro requires a specific travel card. Paper tickets are available, but they wouldn't accept my UK debit card, and I hadn't withdrawn any cash. While the metro is expansive and well-maintained, it's not particularly accessible for first-time visitors.
Plenty of wet days. Contrary to expectations, rain and clouds are just as much a part of life here as in the UK. If you're from the Northern Hemisphere and planning a winter escape, you may be disappointed with the weather during these months. From October to March, expect over 15 wet days per month, with January being the wettest at around 25 days. For those seeking long days of uninterrupted sunshine, consider looking elsewhere. During the drier, optimal months around September, expect early sunsets around 18:00. Mid-December brought with it both pockets of almost uncomfortable sunshine and heavy downpours, with the default appearing to be moderate cloud cover and mild temperatures around the clock.
Studio flats are more prevalent than one-bedroom apartments. For a month's stay, I'd generally prefer a one-bedroom to a studio. However, these were generally harder to find on Airbnb and usually commanded a premium. That said, the studios typically appeared larger than their European counterparts and usually feature proper beds rather than sofa beds.
🛏️ Accommodation & where to stay
Given its sheer scale and often unfavourable reputation for safety, working out where to stay in São Paulo can feel intimidating. However, what you'll find on arrival is a choice of well-connected, leafy neighbourhoods, all with an abundance of modern apartment buildings.
Compared to Rio, São Paulo offers a far better supply of well-located and high-spec Airbnbs, thanks to more modern building stock and being less affected by seasonal tourism pressures.
For around £800 per month, you should be able to find a quality modern apartment on Airbnb, with studio options being far more abundant than one-bedroom units, which command more of a premium.
I stayed in the Smart Vila condo complex, which proved an excellent base and one I would happily return to. It featured one of the best on-site gyms I'd seen in South America, along with an on-site mini-mart, swimming pool and plentiful laundry machines, just a three-minute walk from the Vila Madalena metro station.
I won't claim to be an expert after just seven days and covering a small footprint of the city, but the following areas were repeatedly referenced in my research and are widely considered safe bets where you'll likely spend the bulk of your time:
✅ Vila Madalena
So tranquil you'd never guess you're in a city of over 12 million people. Set among hills, the area blends residential streets with neighbourhood cafes and bars, plus two WeWorks. If you're seeking a safe, calm area with a touch of understated hipster charm, look no further. An ideal choice for anyone feeling apprehensive about visiting São Paulo. However, if you want to feel the city's energy, you might want to look elsewhere.
✅ Pinheiros
Immediately south of Vila Madalena, Pinheiros is known for its artistic and bohemian character. On Google Maps, you'll see it covers a vast area. Compared to Vila Madalena, it has a busier and slightly grittier feel, though still very comfortable to explore on foot. Would happily consider an Airbnb here, particularly near Fradique Coutinho metro station with its abundance of coffee shops and restaurants. The streets immediately north of Oscar Freire metro station also had a great atmosphere and may feel better-suited for longer stays.
✅ Jardins
The 'Jardins' area covers an extensive expanse immediately downhill from Avenida Paulista and below Av. Rebouças. Known as one of the most upscale areas in the city. I'd recommend staying immediately south of Consolação in Jardim Paulista, where you'll find a good mix of restaurants and retail. Further south towards Jardim Paulistano & Europa, it becomes more residential. While I'd happily stay anywhere in this area, I'd probably opt for the two mentioned above.
✅ Itaim Bibi
Close to both Parque Ibirapuera & Parque do Povo, this upscale area has more of a slant towards high-end restaurants, hotels, boutique fitness studios and refined cocktail options. A great choice if you're after a more sophisticated stay and happy to spend more. Numerous WeWork sites within a five-minute walk. Could be ideal for a few nights in a hotel.
❌ Historical Centre
Like most South American cities, São Paulo's historical centre requires caution. With fewer modern amenities and heightened security concerns compared to other neighbourhoods, take care when visiting during daylight hours.
💻 Where to Work
Along with Tokyo and London, São Paulo stands as one of the best cities globally for WeWork access. There are 15 locations spread across the city's most desirable neighbourhoods, and the quality was the highest I found in South America.
Most locations featured outdoor terraces, were spacious and had dedicated areas for All Access members with some of the most professional atmospheres I encountered. I spent most of the week in the R. Purpurina, 400 site at Vila Madalena - it was the most tranquil WeWork I've ever visited.
There was no music, no overly chatty staff at the community bar, no 11 AM sound of table tennis rattling your eardrums. Most desks were occupied by individual independent workers, making it a professional and quiet space to get work done.
A small caveat: it was close to Christmas, so likely quieter than usual.
I spent a day at two other sites, though I wouldn't necessarily prioritise being near either:
Avenida Paulista - Perfect location in what feels like the city centre. However, the All Access seating appears to be claimed by groups of office workers early in the morning, making it feel more like someone's private office than a quiet workspace.
R. Butantã, 194 - Large open-plan space for All Access members on the fifth floor. While it's a decent building with plenty of seats, the immediate neighbourhood isn't somewhere I'd choose to base myself long-term.
Aside from WeWork, numerous independent operators like Eureka and Central9 are dotted across the city and open 24/7, meaning whichever neighbourhood you choose, you should have a decent selection at your disposal.
☕️ Food & Drink
A stylish cocktail bar, open 24 hours a day, located at the top of Avenida Paulista. Really well-designed interior with quality drinks. Would make an ideal date spot. My colleague recommended booking a table in advance if intending to dine as there was a queue to enter.
They have two sites, but I'd recommend the one in Vila Madalena. Some of the best coffee I sampled during my three months on the continent. They sell 400g airtight containers of their espresso blend at very competitive prices.
Lunch buffets are highly popular among office workers in Brazil, and this was the best one I visited. Set in a beautiful house, there's an enormous range of fresh salads and grilled meats, with a plate costing around 35 reais. Definitely worth a visit if working in the area.
📋 Tips
Areas of the city can be super hilly. If you are in any way physically impaired, or simply hate climbing steep hills, you may want to research in advance to avoid severe gradients. Any 10-minute walk around Vila Madalena will inevitably include some particularly taxing climbs and descents.
For most transactions in Brazil, you'll be asked whether your card is Debit or Credit. This can be confusing as while I always used a UK Monzo debit card, it would generally only work when selecting the Credit option. Try both options if your payment isn't going through.
Tipping in Brazil is straightforward. A 10% service charge is typically added to your bill automatically when dining in. Not carrying physical cash for tipping purposes didn't feel problematic.
If travelling domestically, aim to depart from Congonhas, the domestic airport closer to the city centre. The drive to GRU (the larger international airport) can be lengthy and is often susceptible to heavy traffic. An Uber to GRU in the middle of the day cost around 100 reais (£13) and took about an hour. Congonhas's central location makes it much more convenient for domestic travel.
An eSIM from Saily offered reasonable value for money. 15GB of data cost around £18 and was better value than the Airalo equivalent.