Costa Brava in October

My husband and I are planning to visit Costa Brava from October 1-5, and spend one night in Barcelona on the October 5 before flying out. We will be based in Begur and planning to hop around coves and towns, with a day trip up to Cadaques.

I know September / October are considered "shoulder season" and are expected to have fewer crowds, however I've read an old blog post that said even mid-late September was ghost town as many of the shops shut down. We'd like there to be some energy / liveliness so are considering revising our trip if this is the case.

Has anyone experienced Costa Brava / Begur in early October?Also accepting any recommendations of activities in case we don't have sunny weather -- considering a spa day at Mas de Torrent and hiking the Cami de Ronda.

Thanks in advance :)